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Zermatt, straddling its tiny river, is a small town of 6, 000 with a big tourist industry. It has more hotel beds than residents — and they're often completely full. Nearly everyone earns a living one way or another from tourists, who flock here for a peek at the peak. About two million visitors a year arrive by train — cars are not allowed. Electric carts weave quietly through the pedestrians. The town is a collection of over a hundred modern, chalet-style hotels with a well-organized and groomed infrastructure for summer and winter sports.
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The heart of the museum is the aptly named "Old House, " with low ceilings, dramatically sloping funhouse floors, and lots of creaks. Warm and homey, it's a happy little honeycomb of Appenzeller culture — you'll feel like a local has invited you over for a visit. Staubbach Falls The second highest waterfall in Switzerland is literally in Lauterbrunnen's backyard — and you can climb up "behind" the falls on a trail cut into the cliff (except in winter, when it's closed to avoid the danger posed by rockslides).
The Eggimanns' quirky but alpine-sleek house, where they raised three kids, offers visitors an intimate peek at their community. Pension Gimmelwald Restaurant Here at the only place to eat in town you can choose between their rustic, jazz-and-blues mellow indoor dining room or a gorgeous view terrace. Every night at 7 p. m. they serve one three-course meal (you have no choices) to a maximum of 30 people (reservations are required). During the day you can drop in for soup, simple meat-and-cheese board-type dishes, and drinks — ask to try their award-winning, very smooth Schwarzmönch dark beer. Upstairs, this family-style inn, converted from an old, low-ceilinged farmhouse, has 13 rooms, most of them simple and sharing bathrooms down the hall.
With the craze for social media these days and with millions of people from countries with emerging economies now able to afford that dream trip to Europe, famous destinations like this can be really crowded. Do what you can to minimize the crowds. Arrive early, arrive late — it really helps. Continuing our journey to Europe's highest train station, the ingenuity of Swiss engineers is apparent as we climb the railway they built back in 1912.
Schiltalp cheese-making tour Among the high alpine meadows above the village of Mürren is a group of huts called Schiltalp, where hikers will find a romantic farm setting to enjoy a resting spot with good self-service food and drink. In July, August, and early September, you can arrange with local tourism offices to attend a weekly morning cheese-making session at the family-run dairy here. Schilthorn The Schilthornbahn cable car soars from the valley floor, via Gimmelwald and Mürren, to the summit's thin-aired Piz Gloria cable-car station, with a solar-powered revolving restaurant, shop, and panorama terrace.
Spectacular views of majestic peaks stretch as far as you can see. Cradled among these giants, you understand the timeless allure of the Swiss Alps. The Jungfraujoch [station] is like a small resort perched on a mountain ridge. From the highest viewing point, you can see the Aletsch Glacier, which stretches about 10 miles to the south. While shrinking with the warming global climate, it's still the longest glacier in the Alps.
The air is thin — people are in giddy moods. The station is a maze of shops, restaurants, and amusements. A tunnel is actually carved through the glacier to a cavern of ice sculptures — an especially big hit for visitors from lands where ice is a rarity. Outside, on the glacier, people enjoy the scene.
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While the main town, also called Lauterbrunnen, sits on the valley floor, neighboring towns hang on cliffs high above. Lauterbrunnen means "loud waters" — an apt name. Waterfalls plummet from cliffs all along the valley. Staubbach Falls — one of the highest in Switzerland — drops nearly a thousand feet. The valley — with its riverside trails, traditional farmhouses, and chorus of surrounding peaks cheering you on — is a magnet for nature lovers. Towering high above are the icy Jungfrau, Mönch, and Eiger peaks — named for the legend of the young maiden (Jungfrau) being protected by the monk, or Mönch, from the mean ogre, or Eiger. And perched on a saddle between two of those mountains is the Jungfraujoch station — and that's where we're going…by train.
From the valley floor, a cogwheel train takes tourists and mountaineers alike on this ear-popping journey. As we gradually climb, the views continually unfold. Eventually, we arrive at Kleine Scheidegg, a rail junction at the base of the peaks. For well over a century, this has been the jumping-off point for rock climbers attempting to scale the foreboding north face of the Eiger. Kleine Scheidegg has souvenir shops, hearty food for hikers, and rustic 19th-century hotels — a reminder that tourism is nothing new here.
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Amazingly, our train tunnels through the Eiger on our climb all the way to the Jungfraujoch. Think about it: The Swiss drilled this tunnel through solid rock — it's four miles long. This train is smooth. And they did it a hundred years ago. Why? To show off their engineering skills and to celebrate nature. Halfway up, the train stops at panorama windows. While expert rock climbers can exit here into an unforgiving world of ice and air, sightseers get their thrills by simply marveling at the icy views. Continuing up the tunnel, from here the train's cogwheels earn their keep. You emerge at 11, 000 feet — the Jungfraujoch.
This wardrobe dates from 1817. Whether traveling by train or by car, mountainous Switzerland has fine infrastructure, and you can get nearly anywhere in the country in just a few hours. The Berner Oberland is a particularly scenic region. Its Lauterbrunnen Valley, which stretches south from the city of Interlaken, is a wonderful springboard for some of my favorite Swiss Alp experiences. Lauterbrunnen Valley, with its vertical sides and flat bottom, is U-shaped — a textbook example of a glacier-shaped valley.
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The waterfall's spray looks like falling dust — Staub — hence the name. Jungfraujoch train The literal high point of any trip to the Swiss Alps is a train ride through the Eiger mountain to the Jungfraujoch. Keep in mind that you can enjoy the Berner Oberland without taking this trip — it's long, slow, expensive, crowded, and cold. But if the weather's good and you have a spare day and spare cash, the views are exhilarating — and it's fun to be up on a snowy glacier in midsummer.
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